Tools required:

• 10 mm socket wrench and extension
• Small flathead screwdriver
• Long-nose pliers
• (Optional) A couple other screwdrivers, any will do

Parts required:
Nissan OEM bumper, part # 62022-JK22H. For paint colors, please refer to this chart.

This is a sports bumper with the ICC cut-out, you can use the regular sport bumper and make the cut-out yourself.

Miscellaneous clips, as needed and shown. I re-used those from the old bumper.

Steps:

1. Your bumper will come unpainted a dark gray (plastic), unbox and stuff it in your car - if you go through the front passenger side door opening, you can fit it lengthwise to the back of the car with no problem.

2. Remove your front bumper. I did not document this as it’s fairly easy, but you can refer to this DIY on G35Driver from Q8y_drifter.

3. If your car is lowered, or you want more room, it helps to jack-up the front end of the car. Be sure to support it well, i have jack stands on the side-rails and kept the lift on the front jacking point.

4. On the old bumper you just removed, set it down and remove the “threaded” clips on the bottom. Two types of clips are shown here, you may have one or the other (or both), both are fairly easy to remove with the help of a small flathead screwdriver to remove the tension holding it to the bumper.

5. If you have ICC, do this, otherwise skip to step 6.

Remove the three screws as shown, then unclip where pointed. This is a two-piece assembly, the front comes out from the front of the bumper, what you’re looking at is the rear portion. The front, and rear, sandwiches the bumper in-between.

6. On the top-side of the bumper, remove these two bolts. Remove the metal mounting reinforcement/bar and set-aside.

7. Remove the top rubber strip running the length of the top-side of the bumper. The tabs holding them down are wider on the bottom so you’ll have to squeeze them with a needle nose pliers, if you just pull from the heads, they will break.

8. Remove the two metal mounting bars on the middle part of the bumper, these are located on each end of the bumper, the area that attaches it to the fenders. The tabs that hold them in place are rather difficult to remove as they’re ribbed. You do not want to pull from the top head or they’ll break. What i did was insert two screwdrivers for leverage and slowly pushed one up, the other down and vice versa until the bar came off.

9. Comparison of old vs. new

10. Now attach everything you removed from the old bumper onto the new bumper by following these steps in reverse (or however way you want to do it).

A local shop wanted 2.75 hrs. of labor to install the bumper. I did it in roughly 1.5.

Have fun!

Mileage is calculated the old-fashioned way using only data from my daily commute. Tanks that involved aggressively spirited driving are not included. All fill-ups were with Premium fuel, mostly from Exxon with a couple tanks of Shell or Chevron mixed in. Tire pressure was checked on a weekly basis, kept at a constant 36psi.

21.47 - Avg MPG “stock” w/ 245/40/19s and lightweight 19’s (26 tanks)
21.38 - Avg MPG after grounding kit (8 tanks)
21.96 - Avg MPG after Injen SRI (26 tanks)
20.76 - Avg MPG after moving up to 255/40’s (16 tanks)
21.68 - Avg MPG Akebono + 2pc fronts (19 tanks)
21.05 - Avg MPG BC Racing (Insufficient/Irrelevant as of post date)

Sadly, i don’t have full-stock numbers. Mods are cumulative, meaning each line down includes the mods immediately above it.

You can make your own conclusions. What i found was that the only significant change was when i moved up to slightly wider (heavier) tires, the impact of which was neutralized when the lighter Akebono calipers and lighter 2pc front rotors went on.

Overall, i may not have gained anything MPG-wise, but i surely haven’t lost any either, plus the car feels better, and could very well be faster due to less unsprung weight.

Read along to see how i did it.

Parts used:
(1) Speedometer cable, this DIY uses a 38″ long one.
Any will do, so just pick the best deal and length you need. I went for a “gas scooter speedometer cable” on eBay for about $5 shipped to my door. If you find one with the metal-reinforced rubber sheath, all the better!

Tools used:
- Cable cutter

Steps:
1. Cut the ends of the speedometer cable.

2. Find the half-way point and cut it there, you will now have two identical length cables.

3. Remove the ends from your old extenders using the BC Racing supplied wrench and transfer over to the new cable.

That’s it!

Here are some comparison photos.

Why i did this:
BC Racing calls for feeding the extenders from the rear strut towers to the trunk. However, that generally only works on the coupe. On the sedan, the strut tower exits inside the cabin just behind the rear seats. You can either drill another hole and run the extender into the trunk from there, or just have it exit directly up and behind the rear seats. The only problem is the provided extenders are too short for it–sedan owners will need at least another 2-3″ to clear it properly. This new length more than makes up for that.

Color

Sport Bumper

Journey (Non-Sport)

I went with this method for two reasons:

1. The “chrome” on my OEM grille was pitted badly
2. I wanted something to cover it up that was not only easy to apply, but can easily be peeled off. Yes, peeled, this Plasti Dip stuff is quite resistant to scratch but can easily be peeled off from the edges. The thicker you apply it, the easier it is to peel off as it comes off as one piece.

All you need is a can or two of Performix Plasti Dip ($5/can at Home Depot/Lowe’s), some painter’s tape and a couple hours of your time. An Xacto knife will also come in handy post-paint.

If you mask things properly (details shown in the photos below) then there is no need to take anything off, including the Infiniti logo.

There’s really nothing to this, so i’ll let the pictures do the talking.

There are only two tips for doing this:

• Follow the instructions on the can, unlike regular paint you have to apply the coats *heavy* enough to get a wet look, but not too much that it runs. However, even in spots where i got overzealous, the spray seemed to even itself out as it dried.
• On the edges where the tape and painted areas meet, run an Xacto knife at the edges so that the Plasti Dip doesn’t come off with the tape.
• Prep the surface by washing with soap and water, and drying it completely. This makes it easier to peel the stuff off should you need to later on. If you want a more permanent solution, sand the area first.

Tools needed:

• 10mm deep socket, and ratcheting wrench (makes life easier)
• Small flathead screwdriver, for popping the clips
• Pen and paper

Parts needed:

• Battery (Group 35), we use Duralast Gold in this How-To (About $85 from Autozone)
• Battery terminal grease (About $1)
• Battery terminal felt pads (this and the grease above helps prevent or limit corrosion at the terminals) (About $1)

Steps: (Warning: Keep anything flammable away from the battery while you work on it. And please remember safe practices when doing this or any other thing to your vehicle.)

1. Using your pen and paper, jot down all your radio presets. On an ‘07 sedan you will have presets for your satellite, FM and AM stations. You should also note how many miles you have on your maintenance reminders — those shown in the gauge cluster screen. You don’t have to worry about the maintenance counter shown on the larger Nav screen as it seems to retain the information even after the battery is disconnected.
2. Make sure the car is off, then pop the hood and remove the battery cover.
3. It should now look like below. Using a small flathead screwdriver, pop the plugs circled in this photo to remove the shroud:
   
4. Remove the shroud and pop open the tabs marked in this photo with asterisks (*). Also, remove the rubber weatherstrip, it just pulls up and out of the way.Now, taking note of the middle arrow with the enlarged photo, move that tab and disconnect this side of the cowl from the other. You can just pull up and aside the cowl, you can see the left side (by the hood strut) still attached — there is no need to completely remove this.
   

   Here’s another shot showing the shroud off, cowl move up and away to the left, and weather stripping out and folded to the right.
   

5. Loosen the battery holder brackets using a 10mm extended socket, be sure to just loosen the rear — DO NOT TAKE THE NUT OFF COMPLETELY otherwise the J-hook will fall off and you’re going to have a field day fishing it out (shown in inset photo below). The front can be completely removed.
   
6. Disconnect the NEGATIVE terminal first, followed by the POSITIVE terminal (shown in red, or + sign, it’s the part with the red cover)
7. Pull battery out and put new one in.
8. Apply grease to the terminals and drop in the terminal felt pads.
9. Connect the POSITIVE terminal first, followed by the NEGATIVE terminal (reverse order of Step 6, get it?). Hand-tighten everything.
10. Hook the J-Hook back into the hole pointed in photo 5 above, do the same for the front and hand tighten everything.
11. Re-attach the cowl, re-install the weatherstripping followed by the shroud, the pop-up plugs and finally the battery cover.

Make sure all connections and brackets are held down tight, you do not want the battery or the cables loose.

Miscellaneous steps:

1. From the notes you made in step 1 above, add back all your radio station presets (On the ‘07 sedan, once you have made a station selection just press and hold the preset # on the radio until you hear a tone. Once you do, that # will then correspond to your station selection. Rinse and repeat.
2. To reset your one-touch windows, push the window buttons down until fully open and hold for about 10 seconds. Now pull it up until it fully closes and hold for 10 seconds. Do this for each window.

That’s it! It’s seriously easy to do, it took me probably 3x longer to make this how-to than it took to actually replace the battery.

When installing the kit, take note of these:
Front torque member: Tighten to 60 ft.lbs.
Rear torque member: Tighten to 28 ft.lbs.

When assembling the calipers/pads/shims:
Front: Piston | Shim | Grease | Pad
Rear: Piston | “No hole” shim | “holed” shim | Grease | Pad

Bleeding:

• Bleeder valve front and rear: Tighten to 80 INCH lbs. (or hand tighten)
• Bleed the inner valve first, then outer
• Go from Right Rear, Front Left, Rear Left then Front Right
• If you are only replacing the caliper one at a time, and are not planning on doing a complete fluid flush, you can bleed each caliper as you go along in no particular order.

Will the stock G35 Spare Wheel fit? No, but it may with a 25mm spacer.

Will the stock G35 Sport Wheel fit? The wider rear wheel will fit over the rear Akebono caliper without issue. The same wide rear wheel will also fit over the front Akebono calipers with the help of (minimum of 5mm) a spacer to clear the spokes. There is no issue with the inner barrel, as shown in the photos below:

As you can see, the barrel is not an issue. I wouldn’t mind using the wheel over the Akebono’s in a pinch (i.e. spare)

Here’s where it’s tricky, technically the wheel can turn with *very* minor scraping to the face of the caliper (right below the “e”). I would use at least a 5mm spacer to give it some breathing room.

Which pads are currently available for this caliper set? (As of post-date)

• OEM and R-Spec
• Hawk HPS, HP+ and Performance Ceramic
• Carbotech line-up (mostly custom-order)
• EBC Green, High Friction and Red
• Raybestos ATD and PGD line

After having tried several sets from Craftsman and Harbor Freight i came across the Arcan Quick Lift Service Jack — 3 1/2-Ton, Model# XL35 from Northern Tool ($149 as of this writing).

It’s no race jack, and it’s nowhere near Aluminum (it weighs in at over 100 lbs!) but it’s low profile from bow to stern. The only other “low-profile” jack close to this was from Harbor Freight, but only the front end of it was low-profile and it immediately raked up to twice the height towards the back, lodging itself to the bottom part of the bumper and preventing the lifting area from reaching underneath the vehicle.

So far, i’m liking this particular jack and might just end up keeping it. It *is* heavy, but feels very robust and does really only take 8 pumps to reach its full lift height of over 20″.The release is also well-regulated, so the vehicle doesn’t just drop back down to the ground like some jacks.

Here are some pictures for your viewing pleasure.

With the filter in hand, and 30 minutes of your time (at the very most), you can install this and save yourself about half the cost of what it would to have the dealership do it.

Parts used:
(1) MicronAir Activated In-Cabin Filter

Tools used:
- Philips screwdriver
- Light source (it helps, but not necessary)
- Your hands

Steps:

1. Empty your glove box and leave it open

2. On each bottom side of the box, there are clips hidden. Just hold on to the edge on each side (left side shown below) and pull the entire bottom section up.

3. The bottom should now be loose. Now it’s time to take the box off the tracks. This is easier, just insert your hand and push the section in to derail it. (right side shown below, do the same on opposite side). Although now derailed, do not pull the glove box right off yet, see next step.

4. On the left rear side of the box is a dampening pin. You need to loosen this, most people would use needle nosed pliers, i just used my fingertips. The pictures below will give you an idea of how it works and is rather self-explanatory.

Below shows the pin already detached, and the glove box out of the way.

5. Looking directly at the now empty glove box area, look at the bottom and remove that flat piece (you could say it’s the “floor” of the compartment) by pulling it down.

Here’s another view of that piece off, with markers on where the clips are that holds it in place.  There are no clips on the back, so this is all you need to take it off.

6. Remove the screws as marked. There are 7 total. All the screws are the same, so need to worry about where each one came from.

7. Before pulling this section off, remove the triangular piece on the right - this is the small trim that faces the inside of the passenger door. Marked below is where i found it easiest to start pulling the section off, just move your way up from there. Once the bottom section is unclipped, the rest is rather easy and the whole panel will just pop-off.

Here is another view of it, panel removed.

8. Now pull out the piece that you took seven screws out of. Pull from the bottom (easy), the top portion is a little trickier, but it will come out with some coaxing. Once off, slowly lay it to the side. Be careful not to dislodge the airbag connector (yellow plug below).

9. That white plastic box is where the filter is located. To the right is a clip, just slowly unclip and swing it open to the left. You do not need to fully take off this white cover, just open it as wide as you can without popping off the left clips, pull the filter out and put the new filter in.

When placing the new filter in, remember that the air flow arrow should point down. Here’s a photo of the new filter (left) and the old one (right) with 17k miles on it.

That’s it. Just reverse the process and you are done.

A tip for placing the dampening back in, as you’ll see in the photo, there’s the clip part that you squeezed together to take it off, and what looks like a small ring/hole just underneath it. When putting it back in, loop that hole into the holder on the back of the glove box first, the clip then easily pops right back in.

Now enjoy your clean(er) air!

Clicky for video.